Most vegetable crops are grown as annuals in the northern climate, but a few are hardy enough to withstand our winters. Established perennials can remain productive for many years, making site selection critical. Many perennials can adapt to a variety of soil types, but plants grown in moisture holding, well drained soils will be most productive. Choose soils that are not prone to compaction for healthy root growth.

Perennials are relatively static are not moved around the plots in rotation with other crops. As a result, fertility requirements must be provided in place, and weed, disease, and insect controls rely on methods other than crop rotation.

This section will detail the production and culture of asparagus, rhubarb, and Jerusalem artichoke. Chives, mint, and thyme can also be grown as perennials; see the herb section for their culture.

Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are warm season crops in the nightshade family (Solanaceae) and are closely related to potato. These solanaceous crops are transplanted, and yield higher and earlier when grown on plastic mulch. Peppers and eggplants benefit from early-season row covers or low tunnels.

Solanaceous crops are cold sensitive crops at all stages. Transplants should be set out only after the risk of frost is passed, and all fruit should be harvested before autumn frosts. Crop covers can be used to protect fruit if harvest cannot be completed prior to a frost event.

Cucumbers, melons, and squash are annual vines in the gourd family (Cururbitaceae). They are warm season, frost sensitive crops and should be grown on plastic much for maximum production. Growing on mulch also helps keep the fruit clean and reduces weed pressure until the crops have a chance to cover the ground.

Root crops are simple to grow and relatively pest free, but they do require deep and loose soils for uniform root production. Moisture holding loams free of rocks are most suited for root crop production, but with careful soil preparation attractive roots can be produced even on heavy clay.

Highly fertile soil encourages heavy top growth and poor root development. Heavy applications of fresh manure can cause branched roots in carrots and parsnips.

Seed bed preparation
Most root vegetables are relatively pest free, making them suitable for organic production. They involve high levels of soil disturbance, however, both to create a loose root-zone for attractive root growth, and again at harvest when the roots are dug up. Low-till agriculture is difficult to practice if growing large areas of root vegetables.

Soil preparation should begin in the autumn preceding the root crop. If the topsoil is not deep enough, deep tillage equipment is not available, or growing on heavy soils, create raised beds to give deep-rooted vegetables a sufficiently deep root zone. Raised beds are particularly useful for long-rooted vegetable like carrots, parsnips, and daikon radishes. To create raised beds, cultivate the soil as deep as possible to eliminate clods. Use a potato hiller or a set of discs arranged to windrow the soil and draw the loosened topsoil into a hill at least 20 cm high. Create a firm and flat seedbed by flattening the hill top with a roller mounted behind the discs. Space raised beds 1 m apart or as close as the hilling equipment will allow.

The benefits of raised beds are many. The soil will also warm up and dry out more quickly in a raised bed. This is advantageous for heavy or poorly drained soils, but may increase irrigation requirements on lighter soils. Raised beds can simplify harvest; elevating the root zone makes it easier to lift the roots with a U-blade or a garden fork. Weeds can be controlled easily by making occasional passes with the hiller after the crop is established.